Written By: mjnessler

EBC HH Pads: Excellent, easy-to-do upgrade.
$30 & 15 minutes to replace all the clutch/brake fluids: another great investment IMHO.

Brake Pad Replacement:

First, the mechanic part of it...all you will need is 3mm & 5mm allen wrenches (get a 'ball end' 3mm if you don't have one, it doesn't matter on the 5mm).

With the calipers on the forks, remove the spring/cover from the 'top' of your chosen caliper (2-socket head screws, 3mm wrench and you will see why I recommend a ball-end wrench on the left-caliper, front-screw). With the spring/cover off You will see a center 'pin' that runs across the center of the now-exposed opening. Remove that pin with the 5mm wrench and lift the pads out.

To get room for the new pads, I just turned one of the old pads on its side (long axis pointing out of the middle of the caliper, friction material TOWARD the disc) and used it to push the pistons back in.

Drop the new pads in, return the pin to it's previous location...including going through the locating holes on the pad backers...and tighten. Replace the spring/cover (it only goes one way, and it is obvious by the screw hole locations) and tighten the spring/cover screws.

Move yourself, your heavy tool load of two allen wrenches, and all of your accountrements over to the other side of the front end and repeat.

Initial impression was so-so...better braking, but still not what I had heard about how good the EBC HH pads were. Out on my first ride I decided it was time for stainless-steel brake lines and that I would reserve judgement until then and I puttered back home and continued with my planned maintenance.

Brake/Clutch Fluid Replacement:

Next was replacing the clutch master cylinder fluid and using a vacuum tool it took all of 5 minutes, 3 of which was playing with the new vacuum tool/toy.

Since I had all the crap out anyway...new vacuum toy and a fresh bottle of brake fluid...I decided to "practice" bleeding the brakes for when I did the line swap. With all the swill that came out of the caliper at first opening, I just let it go and replaced all of the fluid in the front brake system, too...and being on a roll, I went ahead and did the rear.

Start to finish for replacing all of the hydraulic/brake fluid...15 minutes max...and considering all the disconcerting crap that comes out with the fluid, well worth it even if there wasn't an improvement.... BUT Wow!!! What an improvement!!! The first time I pulled the front brake lever I knew there was a VAST improvement and out on the road, the EBC pads really were impressive!

There is a much more "right now" response from the front brakes, and the lever pressure much more directly translates to braking force. My bike always had a little "squish-then-brake" feel, which I believed was the hoses, but not now. In fact, I'm passing on the stainless-steel lines for now because try as I might, I can't get a sense of how the brakes can be made any better for the riding I do.

Tip from zzrdr:
It's a good idea to clean the dirt from the pistons BEFORE you push them back in. Mine took dirt along with them causing the brakes to drag until I rebuilt all the calibers.

NOTE: Clean brake parts ONLY with Brake Fluid, or Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol). Anything else will cause the rubber sealsto swell causing even more problems.